The black cauldron: one of the butchers of Maison Paillot proudly stirring Boudin Noir over wood fire
Last month we experience a humble, little black truffle fair in the enchanted medieval village of Noyers-sur-Serein, in the Burgundy region of France. The highlight was the large steaming cauldron, with coils of handmade Boudin Noir, french blood sausage, nestled and steaming inside. The esteemed butcher, his two sons, and his entire staff put on quite the show in front of their butcher shop and epicerie.
Boudin blanc, veal and milk sausage with black truffles being made behind this table and sold just as fast.
Fresh giant Gougére, the iconic savory Burgundian cheese puff profiterole
Master butcher, Denis Paillot, offers smoked andouille to his smallest and biggest fan
The black truffles we got this year were eaten before they could be photographed...so here's a photo of our black truffles from a previous truffle fair in Noyers
During one of her longer Paris visits, dear pal Leslie Feist had a miraculous few days off. My twin sister, Simone, and I proposed we all meet up at the train station to hop on the next train to the enchanted village of Noyers. Off we went, on a giddy adventure to the countryside where our friends have a house with an open door, a full cellar and good vibes.
While we were there, the local potters had an open house. We went on a tour of the house and pottery studio where you could feel a creative vortex in the air: lots of twisting wooden staircases and crumbly stone, over grown sweet smelling gardens, rooms full of personality and vibrant colors. The kitchen looked like the kind I would want to cook a farmhouse dinner in, with lots of good friends and perfect tunes playing on a record player. My imagination was on full speed at the Poterie Squire.
Back at the house, Rod greeted us with a lavish Burgundian snack spread. Escargot, local Chablis, cheeses, saucisson, artichokes and black truffle potato chips. On a sunny day with tight buds in Burgundy, this is IT. Shoes were off, pronto.
Local young restauranteur and sommelier, Pierre, popped by with a bottle of his homemade cider. He has been producing cider with his grandfather's apples from a village nearby, along with apples from friends up in Normandy.
After a long apéro sesh, it was time to hit the cobblestones and eventually head up to the hills for a hike and a view before the sun went down. We did some medieval house peeking on the way and walked along the Serein river that hugs the entire village in a U-shaped oxbow. We were invited inside local actor Daniel Tarrare's house which had another charming kitchen that featured an amazing massive old farm sink.
En route to the hills we took a detour and snuck around the construction site of another friend's old house. Leslie was immediately drawn to the old peeling wallpaper and ripped off a large piece to use for letter writing back home. Let this be an inspiration! It's never too late to bring back the tradition of taking the time to write a real letter. One that counts and will be treasured forever, especially during a time of all the fleeting hi-tech, fragmented and abbreviated communication styles out there.
Here is the view you get if you reach the top of the hill. After taking it all in, we made our way back down to the village and spotted some friendly locals having a drink at a café. They invited us to join them as we guzzled water and cooled down from our frolic in the hills.
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Last weekend our friend Pierre introduced us to Guillaume Verdin, the young man who raises lamb at Ferme de Clavisy, just outside the town of Noyers-sur-Serein in Burgundy. Entering the farm is an experience of pastoral idealism. After turning off the main country road, the driveway curves between small pastures with sheep and cows leisurely grazing. Crossing the gentle Serein river via a wooden bridge, the ancient stone farmhouse and first barns come into view, with the farm's fertile acres rolling out to the horizon. Founded and built by the Verdin family at the end of the 17th century, the farm has stayed in the same family and made it's way to through the generations to Guillaume.
Stepping out of the car, we were greeted by a pack of friendly dogs of many sizes, who scrambled and loped around us as we walked into the first of two large bergeries that house the lambs and their parents.
There is an unavoidable giddiness that comes with being at the center of a large building filled with newborn and very young lambs. Amid the high-pitched, human-sounding bleats and the fumbling bounces and wobbles of newborns taking their first steps, it's easy to see why the lamb has secured a spot as the symbol of innocence, sweetness, and springtime joy.
Guillaume is very proud of the dietary regime he has designed for his flock. Unlike many lamb farms that buy feed, Guillaume grows over sixty percent of what his lambs eat. I had a hard time keeping up as he rattled off the ingredients in the mix, but I know it included hay, alfalfa, various grains and herbs, and even, I think, juniper berries.
After staring at the lambs for who knows how long (tearing Danielle away from the bouncing newborns was no easy feat), we walked back to the farmhouse and into the small shop. From the walk-in refrigerator, Guillaume pulled down a whole lamb and we selected two côtelettes which he nonchalantly butchered for us. On the way out, we couldn't resist a few dry-cured saucisson as well.
Later that night, Danielle masterminded the preparation of aforementioned côtelettes. Seared in garlic butter, slathered in Edmond Fallot mustard, then crusted with fresh-cut herbs and breadcrumbs, finished in a hot oven. There isn't any other way to put it: this is the best lamb I've ever eaten.
Just before leaving the farm we heard a faint yell from across the field and Guillaume sprinted off. A few minutes later, he came back, soaked from the chest down. The yell was from his mother, and the reason was that one of the wily young puppies had pushed a sheep into the river. The sheep was unshorn, and had to be fished out of the water by Guillaume. "This sheep still has thick wool, and the water can absorb and drown her," he explained. The dopey happy puppies continued their endless scramble as we drove away, knowing that all's well at the Ferme de Clavisy.
Back in the tiny village of Noyers-sur-Serein for a 10 day autumn escape out of big city Paris. Despite its tiny population, this medieval village has everything one could possibly need within a 5 minutes walk in any direction. There is: a bakery with lots of fresh gougéres (a Burgundy specialty), a Wednesday farmer's market, Madame Mignot who sells produce from her big beautiful garden as well as honey, eggs, and artisanal walnut oil, a butcher, two well respected restaurants, and an art museum. There is also the river Serein that wraps around the village, and plenty of trails into the surrounding nature, where you can breath in the seasonal air laced with wild mushrooms and truffles.
Our door in Noyers, Rod & Marco's renaissance period home
Autumn gradience
In the middle of this field there is path that leads to a summertime watering hole for swimming in the Serein
Restaurant Les Millesimes is Noyers' central command, and the Paillot family are very welcoming and offer spectacular wines and delicious meals. We became fast friends with Pierre Paillot, (whose father runs the charcuterie and butcher portion of the maison) who found us everything from a couple fresh Burgundy black truffles, house-made mayonnaise and a large block of Comté cheese when we needed it for a dinner party.
A Burgundy original, the cheese crusted Gougére
These wines are now on our favorites list
Paillot's cave
Two regional cheeses (both unpasterized): Soumaintrain and Chaource
After our meal time at his restaurant, Pierre immediately grabbed my chef friend, Ingrid from California, and gave her his father's chef's coat to wear while helping with the production of a special order of Mousse de Foie de Porc au Ratafia. The restaurant has several wings, one is a butcher/charcuterie and another a caviste (wine cellar).
Pierre and Ingrid
Denis Paillot, Pork Conductor
Wednesday is market day in Noyers. Maison Paillot makes an incredible Boudin Noir and sells it near the small alley in-between their Boucherie/Epicerie and Restaurant. Along with the Boudin, there are several vegetable stalls, a butcher, and a fromager. Ingrid found some perfect organic quince and made a tarte tatin with them (more on that in a future post!). The market is small and sweet.
