The Trail of Crumbs • A Gastro Travelogue: Noma

Showing posts with label Noma. Show all posts

A Few Wintery Days in Copenhagen

TofC contributor, Ingrid Pankonin, has recently taken a trip to Copenhagen with some friends and has shared her experience here on the Trail of Crumbs. Ingrid is a private cook ( Miel Cooking ) and close friend who lives in Oakland, California. Thank you Ingrid!

When a dear firend invited me to join him at Noma, the celebrated Copenhagen restaurant, I pretty much HAD to figure out how to get to Denmark! I was to join a group of friends, and we found a really lovely home on AirBnB. Traveling to Copenhagen could not have been easier - there is an excellent public transit system. Once we had al arrived, we hit the ground eating!

Despite the cold weather, the citizens of Copenhagen were out in full force - shopping and drinking mulled wine from stalls in the outdoor markets. The architecture was beautiful and I loved the mix of old, old buildings with all the mid-century design. We definitely found some amazing eating and shopping…

No. 2

Our first, jet-lagged dinner of Copenhagen was at this modern, very open waterfront restaurant. The vast space somehow managed to feel cozy, and the food was surprising, yet still recognizable. Nice wine list, smart service, and literally one of the best tartares I've ever eaten - veal with tarragon and egg yolk. It had all of the elements you want in a tartare, while opening your palate to something different, and with an obvious sense of place. We also had delicious cocktails, like the Nordic Negroni, a twist on the classic using science-project techniques for marrying the flavors under pressure.

Lunch at Slotskælderen - a typical smørrebrød - the iconic Danish open-faced sandwiches - restaurant. We somewhat stumbled upon this one, reputed to be the best in Copenhagen, and somehow snuck a group of six of us in at the last minute. Apparently everyone in Denmark likes to have these lavish lunches around the holidays, and in general, reservations are recommended well in advance. We started with special holiday-edition aqvavit, which had travelled around the equator twice, picking up spices along the way to infuse in it. Skål! We had beautifully fresh oysters, many sandwiches - tiny bay shrimp, fried and marinated herring, pork belly, hard-cooked eggs, lots of mayonnaise and the requisite capers, red onions and dill on most of it. So delicious! And all amongst a super cozy, family vibe - we left with warm hearts and bellies!

Changing of the Guard at Amalienborg Palace

Every day at noon, the changing of the guard at the Queen's palace happens - think Buckingham Palace-style uniforms and stern faces. This was an amazing display of history and tradition, not to mention hardiness against the cold, in the plaza between the four identical palaces that comprise the Danish royal family's winter residence.

Lunch at Noma

Words can't really describe how amazing this meal was - from the cozy setting, to the flawless and super-personal service, to the mind-blowing food and wine and juice. Believe the hype.

Shopping and Eating at Torvehallerne Food Hall

This is a gorgeous, modern, indoor-outdoor food market located just a block or so away from Nørreport Station - one of Copenhagen's central metro stops. There are two large, glassy halls and a central outdoor area between them, filled with stalls selling everything from fresh produce to wine to Danish cheeses to seafood to artisanal licorice. This is a wonderful place to have a casual lunch at one of the restaurant-y stalls, and to pick up typical Danish products to bring home.

Shopping in Ravnsborggade

This is a sweet little neighborhood with lots of vintage shops, little cafés, clothing stores, and galleries. The vintage places range from fully-curated mid-century design emporium to sardine-packed bric-a-brac mess - which makes for a fun shopping experience! The lovely Frederiksen boutique has a great selection of women's clothes, and Bevar's serves a cozy, slightly hipster smørrebrød lunch.

Geist

We made a reservation at Geist for the evening after the Noma lunch, cancelled it due to overwhelm, and then ended up in their lounge/bar area for a light dinner anyway! As with pretty much anywhere we went, the staff was incredibly nice and helpful, with the bartender offering great advice on their interesting wine list. We had just a few dishes, but they were delicious and inventive. The suckling pig and crispy artichokes were rich and comforting, and the baked celery root and chestnut dish was a STUNNER. The well-heeled, slightly older vibe matches the inventive but not bewildering cuisine.

Almanak

Our last meal of the Copenhagen days was at this modern smørrebrød restaurant nestled inside the Standard Hotel along the canal front. An airy, comfy space and an open kitchen started out lunch off right, and the updated versions of the sandwiches were exciting and still grounded in tradition. As with all the restaurants we visited, there were myriad aqvavit selections, as well as nicely chosen beer and wine lists. A perfect send-off, wrapping us in a Danish modern hug and leaving us wanting more!

All photos and text: Ingrid Pankonin

NOMA: A DISPATCH FROM THE EDGE OF THE WORLD

View from Christianshavn

Here we have an exclusive report on Copenhagen's famed NOMA restaurant, by a favorite Trail of Crumbs contributor, Janella Fox. Janella is a creative consultant/content producer based in Los Angeles. She has worked in fashion, music, art and entertainment and is the co-creator of RUBIFOX and FIVE-TO-SEVEN.

You wouldn't expect one of best meals of your life to start with a single red orb on a stick and end with crispy pig skin while sipping coffee with strangers. But mine did.

This happened recently while spending some time in the very charming and very agreeable city of Copenhagen. Just days before leaving for the trip, a friend offered to secure me a reservation at René Redzepi's NOMA, aka THE best restaurant in the world from 2010-2012 and commonly known as being virtually impossible to get into, even a year in advance. I accepted the offer while at the same time assuming there was no chance in helvede it was going to happen. But within a week of my arrival, an email arrived from the kind PR manager of the restaurant confirming that there was a standing reservation for me in 2 days time and would I accept. There was no saying no. Some kind of divine intervention had occurred and the ultimate culinary pilgrimage was in my future.

We arrived to an old and formidable warehouse located along a remote area at the end of the scenic harbor in Christianshavn. It was formerly a trading port that was converted in 2004 into an art and cultural center. The Nordic Food Lab is located across the way (it too has incredible design elements). NOMA means "Nordic Food" NO = nordic, MAD = food. A rather basic name for what is such a progressive and elevated food establishment. Also in that vain were the chefs I spied around the back of the building in the alley grilling away on classic black Webers behind a small fence near the old loading dock, bike racks and trash cans. Not what I expected but something I was happy to witness. I love a good collision of high/low.

NOMA Entrance

That day happened to be a rare sunny winter day, shedding warm honey colored light onto the sparse building and its other worldly landscape of low grassy mossy mounds and rocks hugging the base of the exterior. It felt as if we had been lured to the edge of the world, in an appealing and mysterious kind of way. Upon entering the bright and rustic interior, we were greeted by the handsome staff, all of whom seemed to be anticipating our arrival by suddenly appearing from the kitchen and other luminous corridors to gather in a group to welcome us with familiar smiles and a hearty hello. The sideways slants of winter light entering the room only enhanced this surreal reception. It was some sort of heaven that I won't soon forget.

Greeting committee

The lounge

The NOMA kitchen

The dining room was airy, light and weightless grounded only by rustic wood and the gorgeous black tables and chairs (by Space Copenhagen) draped with sheepskin. The unique thing about Denmark in the winter is the "hygge" tradition (for lack of a better translation, "to make cozy") which means that every room in every buidling you enter has many candles burning throughout the day and into the night. This added to the casual embrace of the room. In contrast, it was the kitchen that contained the elements one might expect to encounter at the such a fine establishment; indulgent rich and elegant with a refined contrast of black surfaces, shiny brass, subdued lighting....and it is worth mentioning again, a rather attractive staff busy at work making magical things.

We were seated at the communal table in the corner with windows looking out over the mossy mounds out to the water. It was then that the spectacle of the senses began and continued for the next 4 hours. It started with 10 "snack" courses that arrived in a rapid procession. (Including a juice in a "Nordic Coconut", Smoked quail eggs and my favorite new discovery, Pickled Rose Petals).

Janella and the "Nordic Coconut", a hollowed out kohlrabi filled with pressed juice sipped through
a straw made of a chervil stalk. Served with an herb bundle of dill and chard. An otherworldly delight

Pickled and smoked quail's eggs

Pickled rose petal wrapped blackcurrant ball presentation

Pickled rose petal wrapped blackcurrant bite

The "snack" portion of the meal was followed by the main courses including fermented onions seasoned with salt made of burnt ants and an elegant plate of wild duck with pear, the only meat centric dish of the meal.

Burnt ants that were foraged in a nearby forest

Wild Duck, Pears and Kale

Then a series of desserts (one that left the most beautiful mess and the last of the 21 courses which came wrapped up in a bow!)

Gammel Dansk, a danish bitter with a crispy filet made of milk and a sorrel sauce poured over it.
The beautiful mess before...

...and after

Fudge of smoked bone marrow presented in wrapping paper and a bow

All were paired with exceptional wines and presented by our lovely server and a revolving cast of characters from the kitchen. With the permission from my fellow diners I managed to photograph the glorious procession on my IPhone. You can view the complete 23 course experience here.

Another unexpected highlight during the course of the meal was the conversation that transpired with the fellow diners at our end of the communal table. After consuming the ridiculously yummy steamy savory æbelskiver ball during the "snack" round, our new friend Greg informed us that Trader Joe's is now selling the normally sweet Danish holiday treat in the frozen section. In that moment I reflected on the recent frenzy that went down over the Isabel Marant for H&M release as I began fantasizing about a "René Redzepi for TJ's" collection... The conversation somehow then turned to fast food and in that moment the British and French couples at the opposite end of the table stopped to join in and confirm that yes, In-N-Out Burger is pretty f-ing delicious and just as worth the trip as to NOMA. And so went the discourse while finishing an epic meal at the former best restaurant in the world.

A friend of mine put it perfectly, he said it was as if myself and the other diners had each been given a ticket to the moon, so it was only natural that we would come together and form a bond over the experience. It was far closer to the moon than I imagined I'd ever possibly get and well worth the journey.