The Circle of Smoke

A couple months ago I started giving different types of wood chips to James Henry at Bones for smoking various cuts of meat and seafood.  I mill a lot of different varieties of wood and have amassed a decent collection of European species, mostly from the Taviot mill in the north of Burgundy.  James said the sycamore maple chips were going well with shellfish and the french walnut was working better with things like pork and duck. He had smoked and cured some duck breasts in early May that are now ready. One of said breasts made it home with me and we cut into it today. 

The aroma is sweet and smoky, and I think I can smell the distinct, earthy, coffee scent that comes off milling walnut wood.  The fat at room temperature is soft and easy to slice thin and transparent. The meat is dark and about the same texture and greasiness of Bellota ham.  The taste is subtle and sweet, rich and not over-smoked, in familiar James-style restraint.  It almost feels like slicing a miniature spanish ham.  With some early season cherries and a glass of Gamay, it's pretty much the perfect snack. Which reinforces what I often think, that if I were to leave France, I'd miss several things, but mostly the snacks.

The cellar at Bones restaurant
Suckling pig for sandwiches at the bar, a table at the restaurant proper

 James in the Bones kitchen, stools & shelves I made for the bar

43 Rue Godefroy Cavaignac
75011 Paris
+33 9 80 75 32 08   

Open from Tuesday - Saturday for dinner

post by Adrian Rubi-Dentzel
photos by Danielle Rubi-Dentzel

Lunch at Au Passage in Paris

It was one of those weekends in Paris where the sun was hot, the mood was mellow and our son fell asleep at all the right times. In this post, I will share the outstanding lunch we had, while Anton was fast asleep, at one of our favorite restaurants in Paris, Au Passage.

Asparagus in a 'beurre rouge' sauce, a buerre blanc style sauce using red wine
Ceviche with Red Mullet
Terrine of foie gras on toast with pickled peppers
Bavette steak with sweet onions and potato purée
Veal tartare with fried black olives crumbled on top, piment d'Espelette, and all the right fixings
Strawberries with rhubarb sorbet, meringue crumbs and white chocolate mousse

Au Passage
1bis Passage Saint-Sébastien
75011 Paris, France

Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; dinner only Saturday; Closed Sunday

tel: +33 1 43 55 07 52

Other posts you might like...

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...