The World's Top 50 Restaurants Announced • 2013


It's that time of year again... 
When a panel of peeps that know a thing or two
tell us which of the world's most excellent restaurants are top tier. 
Of course there are many an awesome joint that lives off this grid, but hey.

Click below to find out!


FIRST FOOD A LA FRANÇAIS

Ever wonder how the french introduce babies to food? We have just entered the phase in which our little Anton gets to experience food for the first time here in Paris. His pediatrician, Dr. Pierre Bitoun, has created a guideline on how to approach this very exciting phase of life and I've translated it here (the best I could!) for our readers. Considering France has one of the lowest rates of child obesity in the developed world, we thought it would be worth sharing.

Anton with his papa in Noyers, a few days before his 'first meal'
What they can eat and when? Starting at 6 months, start with 3 foods for 3 days and then switch to a different 3 foods, and so on... until the baby is familiar with all the basic veggie groups. This can help discover any allergies. You do not need need to use salt or sugar because there is enough in breast milk and in baby formula. To prevent allergies, it is good to avoid strawberries, citrus fruits, kiwi, egg whites and chocolate until babies are a year old.

Start by introducing 2-3 teaspoons of food once per day at mid-day lunch time, after nursing (or a bottle). Gradually increase the amount to the point of replacing a mid-day nurse (or bottle) with food. Begin with a combination of 3 types of vegetables such as: 1/3 purée of carrots mixed with 1/3 potato purée (2/3 starchy vegetables) and 1/3 puréed green vegetables (which contain fiber but provide few calories) such as spinach, green beans, broccoli, etc. 

Introduce raw fruits (which contain calories and vitamins) after nursing (or bottle) at any time of day and also after lunch (food meal) too. Such as mashed bananas, pureed apples or pears, grapes or a mix of puréed raw fruits. After a few weeks, and when your baby is ready, you can also offer whole milk yogurt (in a glass jar at the supermarket) or petits suisses 40% fat (fresh cheese comparable to a thick greek yogurt) as a snack.

After your baby becomes accustomed to food add some puréed meat (which contains iron) to the mid-day meal time. About 2-3 teaspoons worth. For example, a chicken, duck or turkey thigh, lamb, beef, hard boiled egg yolk, or fish: small fish such as whiting, sole, hake, herring, sardines and cod - (it is best to avoid tuna and salmon because of chemical pollution: mercury and high levels of PCBs ). Once you add meat to the mid-day meal time, this meal will replace mid-day nursing (or bottle). 

In Summary: After a few weeks of tasting solid foods, infants will have milk in the morning and evening and also sometimes with fruit afterwards, and then a full lunch menu of vegetables, meat and fruit. 

At 9 months, it's like at six months but you can add foods like bread, pasta, crackers and small pieces of vegetables, fruits and other foods ( once they have 4 teeth). You can also offer fruit at every meal and in between meals. 

At 12 months, you continue the same foods like at 9 months. Continue breastfeeding or you can now  offer cow's milk (or goat), up to 720ml (24oz) per day. You can also provide all fruits (citrus, kiwi, strawberries) and even chocolate.

It is important to monitor your child and make meal time comfortable for them and for you. Your child must be able to play with and touch the food happily. Try to feed your child at times that is in rhythm of the whole family. For example, before work in the morning, at home at lunch time, at 4pm snack/tea time and at evening dinner time. 

To avoid the risk of choking, do not give pieces of hard raw foods, such as carrots and fennel etc., finely grate them instead. Nuts and olives are to be avoided for the first 4 years.
  

 
the week's menu posted at my neighborhood créche, with 2 days off during the big holiday month of May


Toddlers eat a 4 course lunch at the créche (high quality subsidized french daycare), which includes a salad course, a then meat or fish with vegetables course, a cheese course and finally fresh fruit for dessert. Babies get the same or similar ingredients, but in purée form. The menu also includes a daily afternoon goûter, snack.


- - - - - - - - - - 

There are two cultural factors in the US that contribute to it's high level of obesity rates: Lots of snacking and restaurants with kitchens open all day, every day. There is sort of a free for all culture to eat whenever you want. Whereas in France they create a schedule of strict meal times and allow two hours at lunch to take your time and not rush. Restaurants in Europe are closed in between lunch and dinner service and children are used to eating on a strict schedule so all in all, they tend to not over do it. Despite the fact that french food is rich and buttery (and delicious), the French are actually pretty moderate eaters.


Here is a tidbit I read in the Guardian UK newspaper: "[In France] healthy eating is included in the school curriculum: "tasting week" classes introduce children to new foods. Lunch menus (following ministry of education regulations) can't include the same dish more than once a month, so that children are exposed to variety. Most school lunch desserts are simply fresh fruit, children drink water (no sweetened drinks are available, and vending machines are banned in all schools), fried foods are served only a few times a month, and ketchup is allowed a maximum of once a week – and only with foods with which it is traditionally eaten.

Why all of these rules? The French believe that teaching children to eat is as important as teaching them to read. In fact, eating well is one of the first skills that parents teach children, from weaning onwards."


COCHINITA PIBIL | SLOW-ROASTED YUCATECAN PORK


During a recent trip to Mexico, our good friend and chef prepared this incredible pork recipe. Ingrid Pankonin of Miel Cooking, put together this dish in her bikini during a day of surfing at our beach house. It all happened so effortlessly and turned into a beautiful dinner under the palapa with the sound of waves as our soundtrack. Our dinner table was also joined by Linda Aldredge, of Lulu Organics. It was true tropical magic with good folks and constant laughs.

 
COCHINITA PIBIL 

This traditional Mexican style pork recipe is from the Yucatan peninsula with Mayan origin. Ingrid improvised this recipe which was based on Diane Kennedy's version from her book, The Cuisines of Mexico.

Ingredients:
  • 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 pounds pork shoulder
  • 4 tbsp salt ( you can use rock salt for marinade if using molcajete)
  • 2 cups Seville orange juice ( plus 2 TB of juice for marinade)*
  • 2 tbsp achiote paste (or seeds)
  • 12 peppercorns
  • 1 tbsp oregano
  • 1 tbsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tbsp Coriander seeds
  • 6 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
  • 6-8 arbol chilis, roasted
  • fresh banana leaves to wrap pork pieces 
  • 6 Cebollitas, green spring onions cut in half ( or one sliced large white onion )
Instructions: 

Pierce the pork all over and rub in 2 tablespoons of salt. Set aside while you prepare the marinade paste.

Using a Molcajete or mortar and pestle, you will grind all the marinade ingredients together in several stages. First grind 2 tablespoons of salt (you can use rock sea salt), oregano, peppercorns and arbol chilis together to a fine paste. Add a few drops of orange juice to help break down the chilis into a paste. Add the cumin and coriander and continue grinding until smooth and incorporated. Then add the garlic and after, the achiote paste and 3 tbsp of orange juice. 

The mixture should be a thick paste. Coat the pork well with the paste, wrap in the banana leaves and place in a dutch oven style pot (or in our case, a glass casserole dish). Tuck the cebollitas ( or white onion) around the wrapped bundles and pour 2 cups of orange juice over the top. Cover and chill overnight.


Preheat oven to 325°. Place a rack at the bottom of the oven, make sure the pork is covered with a tight fitting lid or foil ( if not using a dutch oven type pot). Roast for 2 1/2 hours. Turn the meat over and baste it well with the juices from the bottom of the pot. Cook for another 2 1/2 hours, or until the meat is soft and falling apart.

After cooking, shred the meat roughly, then pour the fat and juices from the pan over it. Serve hot, with fresh hot corn tortillas and all your favorites. We served ours with traditional black beans with cotija cheese on top, sauteed zucchini in coconut oil, and a slaw with lime vinaigrette. You can also use the pork in tortas, mexican roll sandwiches, or any way you desire really. It's so good.


* If you cannot find seville oranges, you can use regular sweet oranges and substitute 1/3 of the juice with juice from 4 limes and a lemon. The juice should be tart and sour.
 
 Serves 6.


 
garlic, cumin, coriander and arbol chilis / tart oranges gettin squeezed

it only takes about 5 seconds to roast arbol chilis over a gas flame 


 
 Achiote paste is added to the marinade mixture in the Molcajete

 

 
The final marinade paste is thick and a vibrant red... the smell is intoxicating 

the pork shoulder is completely covered in the marinade and then wrapped snuggly in banana leaves 

Cebollita onions get tucked around the pork and then the tart citrus juice is poured on top 

 The Cochinita Pibil after it's long roasting period
 
 Remove the banana leaves and start shredding. The pork will be extremely tender.

Sauteed zucchini and traditional black beans with cojita cheese sprinkled on top

our dinner table under the palapa with the lovely Linda and Barbara snuggling our baby Anton

Ingrid opens up the freshly warmed tortillas to begin the feast


We're Back!!


 
WOW. What a whirlwind it's been. We went off the grid for a while and now emerge back in the world with a beautiful new life chapter upon us. We had a baby in Paris last October, traveled back to California (our native State) for a long winter hiatus to surround our new little guy with family, friends and plenty of sunshine. We have just now returned from 2 weeks in tropical Mexico, and  have about one more month of bright California days before returning to Paris. 


Now that we have some time to take a big breath... we are gathering our photographs and stories from our worldly adventures to share with our friends and readers here on The Trail of Crumbs. Hello again. 

This hammock is where we dreamed of chilling for months during busy pre-baby/post-baby days in Paris

 
Best rib-eye tacos in the area, Jorge's 'Tacos on the Street', in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. 
The sweetest family own this joint

 Homemade mashed black beans with queso cotija on top

 Secret eyes at our magical coastal spot, Casa Rincon in Nayarit, Mexico.  
We recommend renting this tropical villa !

 Jalepeño poppers, local style & Our favorite daily salsa: Luis's roasted tomato and Arbol chili salsa

Fresh shrimp quesadillas with homemade tortillas at our favorte taco stand
 in old town Puerto Vallarta. Tacos Marisma.


In our next post, we will feature a special recipe from the Yucatan region, prepared by our chef friend Ingrid Pankonin of Miel Cooking. Stay tuned!  

Lot's of goodness to come for 2013 on The Trail of Crumbs and beyond.  It's so good to be back.

My Grandfather's Perfect Turkey Gravy



H A P P Y   T H A N K S G I V I N G !

I have a special recipe for all of you. The ultimate gravy recipe. My family has made this gravy year after year for generations... and I now have made it for my American and foreign friends while living here in Paris. Everyone asks for the recipe, and we all pine over it the next day when the last of the leftovers are being fought over. ENJOY.

THE PERFECT TURKEY GRAVY

Ingredients:

Turkey giblets ( except the liver)
3 cups organic chicken stock
1 onion
1 carrot
1/4 cup chopped parsley
a few sprigs of Thyme
1 bay leaf
1 cup Madeira wine ( important ingredient! )
3/4 cup cream
4 tsp flour
3 cups water plus 1/4 cup
S & P

Giblet Stock (to be made in advance while turkey is roasting): In a large sauce pan, brown all giblets (except liver) in butter and add 3 cups water, 3 cups chicken stock, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, 1 onion and 1 carrot (stick a clove in the onion if you have one).  Boil for 2 -3 hours and skim the fat from mixture.

When Turkey comes out of the oven and is removed from roasting pan to rest, skim fat from drippings at the bottom of the pan. Place a zip-top plastic bag inside a 2-cup glass measuring cup. Pour drippings from pan into bag; let stand 10 minutes (remaining fat will rise to the top). Seal bag; carefully snip off 1 bottom corner. Drain drippings into a bowl, stopping before fat layer reaches opening; discard fat. You can skip this step if you can effectively remove the fat content. It's important to get rid of the fat in order to obtain a velvety smooth gravy.

Pour drippings back into roasting pan and put pan over moderate high heat directly on your range ( place over 2 burners). Add 1 cup Madeira to drippings, and reduce by cooking over moderate high heat until 1/2 of original volume. Be sure to scrape in any bits and pieces of drippings stuck to the bottom of the pan into mixture as they will dissolve well and add a lot of flavor. You can use a gravy whisk. Once reduced, pour liquid through a sieve into a medium sized saucepan and return to range. 

Add the giblet stock to sauce pan over medium heat and reduce to 2 cups. Add 3/4 cup cream. Stir in 4 teaspoon's flour that has been dissolved in 1/4 cup water. Simmer 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serves 8 - 10. For a larger group, simply double this recipe.

Hazelnuts, Chocolates and Vines












The Langhe region of Piedmont, Italy, surrounding the city of Alba has become one of our favorite places to visit regularly. Four out of the last five harvest (and white truffle) seasons have found us meandering through the countless hills, on our way to a meal, a vineyard, or in safari mode, hoping to cross paths with the enormous white boar we once encountered, (roughly the same size as our rented Fiat 500).




 
We recently had the pleasure of staying at Cascina Sant'Eufemia, a stones throw from Barolo (just outside the DOC designation), hosted by the charming Paolo and Chiara.  Here they produce the three classic varieties of red wine from the region, Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo as well as the incredible Nociola Piemonte IGP, that is, the name-protected Piedmontese hazelnut.


It's difficult to describe why the Piedmontese hazelnut is so much better than the one we're all familiar with.  I suppose you could think of the difference between a tomato from a supermarket in the middle of winter and an heirloom tomato from the farmers market at the peak of summer ripeness.  It's that kind of difference.  It's also worth noting that the Ferrero headquarters is located in Alba, and is responsible for the city having the highest average income in Italy.  More importantly, Ferrero is the company that produces Nutella, and if you get lost it in the right part of town, you'll find yourself driving through a sweet-smelling , chocalate-hazelnut cloud.


If you're in the Langhe region, you're probably there to eat and drink, and it's likely that you'd   be interested in some of the sweeter things not always available at the restaurants and vineyards.   Ravera Cioccolateria in Cherasco gives the Piedmont hazelnut the respect it deserves in their delicious chocolates and the supreme gianduja (jahn-du-ya), a confection native to Piedmont, invented in the late 1800s, under Napoleon's reign.  Go there, and do your best to save some sweets for after dinner and maybe even a few for when you get back home.


Even in the fog of early winter, the changing leaves glow in the vineyards.  It is a serene joy to drive around these hills with nothing but a dinner reservation on the agenda and empty hours to explore the valleys and villages.


After a few days of hearing us tout the glories of the Piedmont hazelnut, Chiara offered to make us a flourless hazelnut torte from an old family recipe.  On our last morning at the cascina, we dunked slice after slice in our coffee before heading back home.  But not without the recipe...


CHIARA'S ITALIAN HAZELNUT TORTE  
(..which happens to be gluten free)

INGREDIENTS:

200 g (1 1/2 cups) toasted hazelnuts, finely ground in a food processor
200 g (1 cup) sugar
4 egg yolks
4 egg whites
pinch of salt

Preheat oven to 180˚ Celsius (350˚ Fahrenheit). Whip egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff, then add sugar and continue beating. Add egg yolks one at a time, whipping constantly. Add ground hazelnuts to egg white mixture until smooth and well combined. Pour mixture into a round cake pan ( about 20cm in diameter) that's been lined with parchment paper ( or buttered and floured). 

Bake for 30 minutes......e buon appetito!

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