Back in the tiny village of Noyers-sur-Serein for a 10 day autumn escape out of big city Paris. Despite its tiny population, this medieval village has everything one could possibly need within a 5 minutes walk in any direction. There is: a bakery with lots of fresh gougéres (a Burgundy specialty), a Wednesday farmer's market, Madame Mignot  who sells produce from her big beautiful garden as well as honey, eggs, and artisanal walnut oil, a butcher, two well respected restaurants, and an art museum. There is also the river Serein that wraps around the village, and plenty of trails into the surrounding nature, where you can breath in the seasonal air laced with wild mushrooms and truffles.

Our door in Noyers, Rod & Marco's renaissance period home
Autumn gradience
 In the middle of this field there is path that leads to a summertime watering hole for swimming in the Serein

Restaurant Les Millesimes is Noyers' central command, and the Paillot family are very welcoming and offer spectacular wines and delicious meals. We became fast friends with Pierre Paillot, (whose father runs the charcuterie and butcher portion of the maison)  who found us everything from a couple fresh Burgundy black truffles, house-made mayonnaise and a large block of Comté cheese when we needed it for a dinner party.

A Burgundy original, the cheese crusted Gougére
These wines are now on our favorites list

Paillot's cave
Two regional cheeses (both unpasterized): Soumaintrain and Chaource
 After our meal time at his restaurant, Pierre immediately grabbed my chef friend, Ingrid from California, and gave her his father's chef's coat to wear while helping with the production of a special order of Mousse de Foie de Porc au Ratafia. The restaurant has several wings, one is a butcher/charcuterie and another a caviste (wine cellar). 

Pierre and Ingrid
Denis Paillot,  Pork Conductor
Wednesday is market day in Noyers. Maison Paillot makes an incredible Boudin Noir and sells it near the small alley in-between their Boucherie/Epicerie and Restaurant. Along with the Boudin, there are several vegetable stalls, a butcher, and a fromager. Ingrid found some perfect organic quince and made a tarte tatin with them (more on that in a future post!). The market is small and sweet.


  1. wow. double wow. can i please hide in your luggage and follow you to all these wonderful places and meals? sigh... you are both very effective in creating lovely dreams!


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